Dating my Hermès bag: The simple and effective guide

Owning a Hermès bag is more than just a purchase, it is an immersion in the history and craftsmanship of luxury.

But how do you know if your Kelly, Birkin or Constance bag dates from the 90s, 2000s or if it is more recent? Whether you are a seasoned collector or a vintage bag lover, there are several reliable ways to date a Hermès bag.

Follow this guide to discover the keys to dating or situating the era of your precious bag in time!

The date code

The first thing to check to date a Hermès bag is the date code which is a stamp, also called a blind stamp , it is usually found inside the bag in a discreet place, the marking is in relief.

Hermès introduced this marking in the mid-1940s. You will therefore not find any stamps on bags produced before 1945.

Every bag produced after the mid-1940s has this unique marking that allows you to place it in time.

Here are some key milestones:

• From 1945 to 1970: years are represented by a simple letter without shape .
• From 1971 to 1996: the letters are in a circle .
• From 1997 to 2014: the letters are in a square .
• Since 2015: the letters are alone again but in a new reading format: L LL CCC LL (L = letter / C = number), in which the first letter announces the date of manufacture of the item. The following letters and numbers represent the signature of the craftsman and the workshop.

In this example the marking of the letter N in a circle indicates a year of manufacture in 1984.

In this example the marking of the letter I in a circle indicates a year of manufacture in 1979.

Once you have located your bag's code, you can use the table below to specify its manufacturing date.

Download this guide in pdf

The Craftsman Code

In addition to the date code, each Hermès bag is marked with a craftsman code . This code is often found near the date code, so it is normal to find additional markers to those listed above. These markers allow this time to identify the person or people who made the bag. It can represent a shape, a number, a letter or even a symbol.

 

The evolution of materials and details

Dating a Hermès bag is not just based on the code. It is also possible to refer to certain design details that have evolved over time.

• Clasps: Older bags, like Birkins and Kellys from the 80s or 90s, have wider, sturdier clasps than newer models. If your bag has a thinner or different shaped clasp, it may be from a more recent period.
• Jewelry: Like Chanel, Hermès used gold-plated jewelry for its bags before moving on to more modern finishes. Until the mid-1990s, clasps and padlocks were often plated with 24-karat gold, which is a valuable indicator for collectors.

 

Leather and its characteristics

Another way to determine the age of your Hermès bag is through the materials used . The house has worked with several types of leather over the decades.

For example :

• Box leather was very popular in the 70s and 80s, with a smooth and shiny surface.
• Togo leather was introduced in the 90's and has become a favorite for its grainy texture and durability.

 

The Hermès authenticity card

Although less systematic than with some other brands, some Hermès bags are accompanied by an authenticity card . If you have this card, you will find additional information on the model and its manufacturing date. If the date code of the bag is difficult to read, this card can prove to be a valuable ally.

Call an expert or a certificate of authenticity

Finally, if you are still unsure about the age of your bag or would like to get an accurate assessment, don't hesitate to consult an expert. Auction houses, boutiques specializing in second-hand luxury goods, or even Chanel itself can help you date and authenticate your bag as accurately as possible.